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The Chapter 4: Looking Back to Look Forward to Look Back Again
“In Afrofuturism, we’re always talking about using the imagination to create new futures. But what makes Afrofuturism different from other takes on futurism is an emphasis on using imagination to also reimagine the past ... It engages alternative views of looking at time, with the future, past, and present being one” (Ytasha Womack, 2018)
‘The
Previously in the ‘The
Throughout the development of this collection, our visual references have expanded, drawing from both prehistoric and present natural life. This shift is reflected in our fabric choices, with garments feeling more naturally fluid than in previous collections; though still primarily made from white deadstock fabric, revived through in-house manipulation and dyeing. Though the collection began with a darker narrative, the construction outcomes are often both strange and humorous; as improved pattern cutting allowed for more realistic character-to-garment conversions. For this season, we’ve also introduced womenswear, emphasising freedom of movement and expression that is in the line with the menswear world we’ve built so far.
Up until now, we’ve only been able to share our ideas in 2D, on a screen. This time, we aimed to design this presentation as a complete experience, thoughtfully exploring every element that could help to bring our fantasy to life. Take RuneScape — on the surface, it may seem like just a game with dragons and shields, but reveals a whole rich world to explore once you’re immersed. We wanted our presentation to have that same depth in going far beyond what you see of us on the screen. It’s not just about the clothes; every aspect has been crafted to convey the world we live in every day as we create. The floors, ceilings, and walls of the space are all made from textiles we developed in-house, using deadstock fabrics hand-dyed, sewn, and distressed by our team, which will later be repurposed into garments. The sets, too, were designed in-house, with details like toucan fish in the Forest set, mythical creature hides in the Learning set, and weapons made from studio waste in Combat — all carefully considered to bring our world to life. Accessories and footwear are uniquely designed for each character, while the sound design is beautifully crafted to reflect the feeling of each set and the overall story. We collaborated with talented actors and a wicked theatre director to bring these characters — inspired by real people — to life. Watching them interact with each other and the set, expressing childlike joy as they explore our world, has been a truly special aspect of this project.
What makes this collection most special is the team behind it. Designing versions of my family members with a team has been an unusual experience, with each person forming their own relationship with the characters, causing the story to evolve along with them. The immense care and attention given to each character are a testament to the team’s dedication. This collection, born from many minds, backgrounds, and techniques, represents a refined evolution — from the research to the patterns, materials, and presentation. It’s a constant progression, balancing my vision with many brilliant minds that are creating by my side, and it feels like the beginning of something strong. A foundation we’ll continue to build upon. We are incredibly proud to share this Chapter with you, and if it inspires even one person to create and express themselves freely, we’ll consider it a success.
Thank You
To the British Fashion Council, for providing us with a platform to bring our fantasy to life. To the Paul Smith Foundation, Projekt, the Mayor of London, and Martha Mosse, for giving us a space to create. To Fin Cullum of Blonstein Productions, for patiently and confidently supporting us on the journey of our first show. To Dermot Daly, for your invaluable wisdom, so essential as we ventured into the world of performance. To our amazing actors, who embraced their roles with such excitement and imagination. To Jordan Fox, for building the perfect soundscape for this important moment. To Jake Krushell, for enabling “Dad” to levitate with your metalwork. To Madison Hahn & Nike London, for your continued support and for providing a foundation for our footwear designs. To Olya Kuryshchuk for great advice exactly when we needed it. To Baile Ali, Jordan Core, and Oscar Finnie, for capturing the moment. To Vega Textiles, for always coming through with a canvas for us to create on, and to Beker Studio, for providing a place where we could bring that canvas to life.
And most of all, thank you to my fantastic studio team and everyone who helped bring this project together:
Anastasiya Kuzmich, Rory O’Sullivan, Augustine Amaya, Mathis Oliver, Rachel Hall, Yijune Kang, Tytus Tułecki, Syd Yen, Noah Clark, Harvey Bigg, George Zverko, Camille Fernandez, Hugo M’Baye Entringer, Marmarie Zaloom, Sabin Kang, Zihang Yu, Aaron Oddoye, Kenna Neyland, Aaron Sam Nati, Charlize Pfister, Abbey Yates, Hyunwoo Kim, Ga Mle, Eric Muren Wu, Brian Oh, Elian Mommee, Vincent Paul Herman and Kim Quang Brechet.
Image Credits: Oscar Finnie - @oscarfinnieoscarfinnie
London Fashion Week Presentation - September 2024
The Forest
Mum, Ricky, and Lorrelle rest among the whispering trees of the forest, the quiet splash of a successful catch breaks the stillness. Together, they clean and cook the fish over a crackling fire, the air rich with the scent of smoky sustenance. With young ones to feed, they are familiar with life's enduring cycle, where only continuity and change are constant. They vow to nurture and protect, while is to them on the path ahead.
The Library
Grandad, Stephanie, and Karis are gearing up for an intellectual battle, drawing strength and insight from their ancestors' teachings. They document each lesson, crafting a repository of knowledge to guide future generations. This cycle of learning and teaching is a sacred trust, ensuring that ancestral wisdom reaches the future.
Reflection
Dad sits suspended in the stillness of space, levitating as his mind journeys inward to seek understanding. Unbeknownst to him, beyond the mirror's veil, his past self mirrors each movement, joining past and present in reflective quietude. This self-reflection, informed by past wisdom, guides him with clarity and purpose.
Combat
Amir and Nathaniel's precise movements strengthen their bodies and their bond. After each bout, they lift each other up and tend to their wounds, a gesture of respect and support. A healthy body, much like a healthy mind, will help them to ensure no one is left behind as they push toward a brighter future.
Image Credits: Oscar Finnie - @oscarfinnieoscarfinnie
Kadessi Alassani - @bykadessi
Kadessi Alassani - @bykadessi
Backstage
Image Credits: Jordan Core - @jordancore4