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AW25
The Chapter 5: Sunset on Tutorial Island
belonging — a product of Afrofuturism. Each look embodies a limitless
version of my family members, shaped by the fantasy worlds I grew up
with. Their story unfolds season by season. In our last chapter, they
navigated the delicate balance between painful pasts and a hopeful vision
for the future, honing their skills and gathering resources in preparation to
confront the physical embodiments of their past.
With AW25, we enter the next chapter. Today's presentation captures the
family’s final day before stepping into the unknown. They have mastered
their crafts, each playing a crucial role in maintaining the group’s balance.
Yet uncertainty lingers — some carry quiet confidence, while others
radiate tension at what lies ahead.
Designing past collections inspired by my family while working with a team
had previously been a challenge, as few had met the real people behind the
characters. For our fifth chapter, we redefined them, transforming mythical
figures into fully realised personas with distinct goals, motivations, and skills.
Their world became a meticulously mapped island, with diverse biomes,
unique climates, vegetation, and creatures. Each character’s role, rooted in
their real-life counterpart, determined their archetype, duties, and skills.
Mum, Ricky, and Lorrelle have spent their time in a forest-like Gathering
biome, deeply attuned to nature. Lorrelle, my eldest sister, is the Protector,
anxiously guarding the children and managing the group’s camouflage.
Her husband Ricky, the Provider, hunts and fishes in animal pelts, passing
the most fantastical form — morphing between a beetle-like exoskeleton,
reptilian scales, and fur as necessary support the group. The rest of the
family has also transformed. Grandad became the Mischievous Tinkerer,
Karis the Mediator, Stephanie the Animal Whisperer, Amir the Attacker,
Nathaniel the Defender. Dad split into two — Old Dad, weathered and gaunt,
and New Dad, freshly synthesised and muscular. These identities are woven
into every aspect of the collection — from textiles and prints to dyeing
techniques and pattern cutting. These archetypes are more than just a
narrative thread; they shape the very fabric of the design.
Building this lore took weeks, so it had to extend beyond the garments,
allowing audiences to engage directly. The family’s island, a fully realised
within the presentation box, holds character profiles, diaries, first-person
audios, development sketches, holograms, and dye samples, revealing the
intricate process of weaving the story into garments. Mum’s backstory,
tracing her journey to gaining her powers, plays as an animation within the
Gathering Nook. Visitors can too step into this world, receiving a Yaku
passport, answering self-reflective questions to determine their biome, and
receiving a biome-specific passport photo and badge of belonging.
With the collection so deeply rooted in character individuality, working with
actors again felt natural. Continuing our collaboration with theatre director
Dermot Daly, Sunset on Tutorial Island presents a full day, from sunrise to
nightfall, before the characters leave on their journey. It marks their final
They don’t yet know what lies ahead, but they move forward — some with
quiet confidence, others with hesitation.
Their feelings mirror our own, an ever-shifting balance of pain and hope,
avoidance and fantasy, the fear of the unknown, and the decision to keep
going. With each season, our character’s story deepens, as does our
exploration of what fashion can be — a portal, a narrative, a medium for
self-reflection and connection.
Thank You
To the British Fashion Council, for providing us with a platform to share
our creations. To the Paul Smith Foundation, Projekt, the Mayor of
London, and Martha Mosse, for giving us a space to create.To Laura
Vaughan and Blonstein Productions, for the on-the-ground support
that makes it possible to turn fantasy into reality. To Dermot Daly —
we want to be you when we grow up. To our amazing actors, for
shining so brightly, each in yourown special way. To Michelle Dacillo
and Richard Phillipart, for helping our actors feel their most confident
selves. To Jordan Fox, for once again building the perfect score for our
characters’ journey. To Madison Hahn & Nike London, for your continued
support—we wouldn’t want anything but the swoosh on our characters’ feet.
To the British Fashion Council, for providing us with a platform to share
our creations. To the Paul Smith Foundation, Projekt, the Mayor of
London, and Martha Mosse, for giving us a space to create.To Laura
Vaughan and Blonstein Productions, for the on-the-ground support
that makes it possible to turn fantasy into reality. To Dermot Daly —
we want to be you when we grow up. To our amazing actors, for
shining so brightly, each in yourown special way. To Michelle Dacillo
and Richard Phillipart, for helping our actors feel their most confident
selves. To Jordan Fox, for once again building the perfect score for our
characters’ journey. To Madison Hahn & Nike London, for your continued
support—we wouldn’t want anything but the swoosh on our characters’ feet.
To Olya Kuryshchuk, for being a true supporter and always just a phone
call away. To Baile Ali, Jordan Core, Oscar Finnie, Mossy Mcdermott,
Loen Smith and Ishita Mishra for capturing the moment. To Vega Textiles,
for always coming through with the perfect canvas for us to create on,
and to Beker Studio, for providing a place where we could bring that
canvas to life. To Beata Kubala & Lucy, Ibrahim & Guney Guvec, and
Abdul Malik, for helping us transfer our work from the studio into the
hands of the people.
call away. To Baile Ali, Jordan Core, Oscar Finnie, Mossy Mcdermott,
Loen Smith and Ishita Mishra for capturing the moment. To Vega Textiles,
for always coming through with the perfect canvas for us to create on,
and to Beker Studio, for providing a place where we could bring that
canvas to life. To Beata Kubala & Lucy, Ibrahim & Guney Guvec, and
Abdul Malik, for helping us transfer our work from the studio into the
hands of the people.
And most of all, thank you to my fantastic studio team and everyone who
helped bring this project together: Anastasiya Kuzmich, Charlie Arnott,
Charlize Pfister, Harvey Bigg, Mathis Oliver, Marmarie Zaloom,
Miriam Daou, Noah Clark, Rachel Hall, Rory O’Sullivan,
helped bring this project together: Anastasiya Kuzmich, Charlie Arnott,
Charlize Pfister, Harvey Bigg, Mathis Oliver, Marmarie Zaloom,
Miriam Daou, Noah Clark, Rachel Hall, Rory O’Sullivan,
Sooyung Kim, Syd Yen, Taymar Robinson,
Tytus Tułecki, Yijune Kang.
& those that helped with final push when we needed it most:
Lottie Blankstone, Meda Mosiejute, Woody Castang, Alex Bäuml,
Bruce Jiang, Camille Fernandez, Elian Mommee, Hugo M’Baye Entringer,
Kim Quang Brechet, Vincent Paul Herman, Louis Niquille and Aliza Memon.
Performance Director: Dermot Daly
Score: Jordan Fox
Make Up: Michelle Dacillo
Hair: Richard Phillipart
Production: Laura Vaughan & Blonstein Productions
Set Fabric Partner: Vega Textiles
“Gathering” Animation: Camrhon Mitchell
3D & Island Animation: Sookyung Kim
Tytus Tułecki, Yijune Kang.
& those that helped with final push when we needed it most:
Lottie Blankstone, Meda Mosiejute, Woody Castang, Alex Bäuml,
Bruce Jiang, Camille Fernandez, Elian Mommee, Hugo M’Baye Entringer,
Kim Quang Brechet, Vincent Paul Herman, Louis Niquille and Aliza Memon.
Performance Director: Dermot Daly
Score: Jordan Fox
Make Up: Michelle Dacillo
Hair: Richard Phillipart
Production: Laura Vaughan & Blonstein Productions
Set Fabric Partner: Vega Textiles
“Gathering” Animation: Camrhon Mitchell
3D & Island Animation: Sookyung Kim
Image Credits: Jordan Core - @jordancore4